Natural Growth Lawn Care

Follow the information on this web site to start reducing the use of pesticides around your home. Remember: a perfect lawn and pest-free home is only part of the big picture. What is most important is preserving our health and environment.

Pest Management Program

The City of Oshawa has been implementing its Pest Management Program for the past 6 years. City parks have used alternative products like kelp, corn gluten, worm castings, liquid fertilizer, granular products to retain moisture, vinegar, fish fertilizer and compost topdressing. Maintenance has included a cutting height of 3 inches, over-seeding, soil tests every 2 years, fertilizing, aerating and topdressing when required. Please check out some before and after pictures of City fields. 
Before and after pictures of City fields  

• Provincial Pesticide Ban
• Giant Hogweed Information
• Dandelions
• Top 5 Turf Product Picks
• 7 Steps to a Healthy Lawn
• Salt or Pet Damage to Turf
• Nutrients
• Native Plants
• Lawn Alternatives

Provincial Pesticide Ban

The Provincial Pesticide Ban came into effect on April 22, 2009. Click here to view the Pesticide Ban Regulations and the Pesticide Act or visit the Ministry of Environment website at www.ontario.ca/environment.

**NOTE: To request enforcement for illegal pesticide use, please contact the Ministry of Environment at 1-800-565-4923.

Dandelions

Due to the Provincial Pesticide Ban,  (see above link) dandelions can no longer be sprayed with traditional herbicides.  The only spray that can be used is horticultural vinegar; it can be applied as a spot spray but be careful as it will kill the grass too. 

The best way to keep dandelions out of your lawn is to keep it thick and healthy.  Our 7 Steps to a Healthy Lawn will guide you through the process. 

Top 5 Turf Product Picks

1. Liquid kelp is a great product to put down immediately after over-seeding. It provides all required nutrients for the growing grass. It is also a great product to put down during the heat of the year and other times of stress.
2. Compost topdressing or compost tea. Ensure the compost is completely broken down. If it smells bad it is bad; don’t use it. This will provide all the beneficial micro-organisms with required food so they can do their job. It also provides turf with other required nutrients.
3. Corn Gluten is a corn by-product that prevents the germination of seeds; essentially weed seeds. Ensure you ask the proper time for application. If you are planning to over-seed, ensure you wait at least 4 weeks after the corn gluten application, or the grass seed will not grow.
4. Liquid fertilizers. Only apply required amounts of fertilizer; this is determined by getting a soil test. Liquid (foliar) fertilizers are taken it up almost immediately through the leaves of the grass. Solid (granular) fertilizers must first break down before it is made available for the plants.
5. Endophytic grass seed. Endophytic means the grass has been colonized by good fungi. Fungi grow in the soil with the grass roots and bring nutrients to the grass that is too far for the roots to get.

7 Steps to a Healthy Lawn

A healthy lawn is less susceptible to weeds, diseases and insects. Follow the seven steps below to produce a healthy lawn, free of chemicals.

1. Mowing

• Keep blades sharp.
• Mow when grass is dry.
  • Wet lawnmowers spread disease spores.
  • Prevents clumping of grass clippings.
• Mow at 3-inch height.
  • Will have greater root growth and shoot re-growth, and more lateral stems.
  • Prevents weed seed germination.
  • Do not remove more than 1/3 of the height of grass.
• Leave clippings on the lawn.
  • Clippings do not cause thatch; grass leaves are 80 per cent water and break down fast.
  • Grass cycling provides 1/4 of the lawn’s required fertilizer.

2. Fertilizing

• Test the soil to determine fertilizer requirements.
  • Only apply the type and amount of fertilizer required.
  • Too much fertilizer does more harm than good.
  • Use natural or slow-release fertilizers.

3. Aerating

• May to June or September to October.
• DO NOT ROLL TURF - Rolling turf increases soil compaction.

4. Dethatch

• Thatch is a layer of dead material comprised of rhizomes, roots and stolons.
• Grass clippings do not cause thatch.
• A small layer of thatch (1/2 inch or less) is actually good for the lawn, providing mulch and a cushion.
• Dethatch your lawn in the spring or fall every 2-3 years.

5. Over-seeding

• May ­to June or September to October.
• Over-seeding should be done after aerating to provide good seed-to-soil contact.
• Use the proper mixture of grass for the area.

6. Watering

• Water in the early morning or mid-evening to prevent evaporation of the water.
• Water deeply and infrequently.
  • Water 1 inch a week. Any more is wasted and any less produces shallow rooting systems.
• Irrigation systems can reduce the amount of water wasted by using a timer, rain sensors and placing water only where it is needed.

7. Correct Grass Species

• Grasses, like many plants, have tolerance limits. In order to ensure a healthy stand of turf grass be sure to use the correct species for the correct area.
• Kentucky bluegrass does not grow well in shade; however, fescues grow extremely well in shade.
• It may be best to plant perennials in areas that will not produce healthy turf.

Salt or Pet Damage to Turf

Damage to turf in areas beside sidewalks or a road is probably due to salt damage. Gypsum can be applied to help the turf recover from salt or pet urine damage. Contact your local fertilizer supply store to see if they sell granular gypsum. When applying it to the turf, ensure you sweep it off any hard surface areas as it becomes slippery when wet.

Nutrients

All plants require nutrients in order to grow. The most commonly known nutrients are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K), these are primary nutrients. However there are other nutrients that plants require; secondary nutrients like Calcium, Magnesium, and Sulphur. Micronutrients include Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Copper and Boron. Primary and secondary nutrients require yearly replacement. Micronutrients are replaced only when deficiency symptoms are evident or soil tests recommend it.

Native Plants

Native species are those that grew in the region prior to European settlement. They are extremely important to wildlife; providing food and shelter. Another benefit of native plants is low maintenance. They are not fertilized, watered, or sprayed with chemicals as often as a lawn, and they do not have to be mowed. All these items save money. Once established, native plants do not need to be watered and are more resistant to pests, diseases and drought. It is important to select plants with growth requirements that best match the conditions in the area to be planted.

Lawn Alternatives

Lawn alternatives are a great way to reduce the amount of lawn on your property and therefore your maintenance time and cost. Be sure to select plats that are resistant to pests and use the right plant for the right area. Do not place shade plants in full sun and vice versa.

Ground Covers

• Ground covers are plants that cover the ground but do not grow tall and therefore do not require mowing. Flowing or herbal plants are available.

Mini Mow Mixtures

• Pre-made mixtures have a variety of plants, which flourish as a lawn and are cut only twice a season.

Clover

The benefits include no watering, fertilizing or mowing. Clover stays green in the driest parts of the year and only costs about $4 to cover 4000 square feet.

Flower or Shrub Beds

• Can provide low maintenance areas.
• Plants should be planted in areas that area hard to mow, like slopes or under low hanging trees.
• Use native perennials, they are hardy and require less attention.
• Select varieties that do not require pruning, dividing or staking.